Dominica is beautiful. One of our guidebooks said that if Christopher Columbus would sail around the Caribbean now, he would probably only recognise Dominica. Unspoilt nature is what makes this such a fantastic island. Dominica is also the only Caribbean island to have a surviving population of Carib Indians. The Carib Territory is an area of Dominica where their culture is preserved.
When we sailed into the bay of the capital Roseau, we were greeted by the awesome Mr. Beanz. After securely tying Spacegrazer to a mooring buoy, he came on board to tell us about all the exciting stuff that he could organise for us to do on his stunning island. Meanwhile, Paul and Jess from Mrs. Chippy had joined us and together we made plans for a guided day out and about.
An Epic Day Out
The next morning Mr Beanz picked us up in his speedboat and dropped us off ashore. Our guide from then on was Armstong. Armstrong was very knowledgeable and a great storyteller. While he drove he told us lots about the island. The topics ranged from which edible plants grow there (basically everything except apples), to politics and off course, what it was like when the film crew for the Pirates of the Caribbean films touched down on the island for filming.
We bought a week pass for Domica’s national parks since we planned to visit more than one place within the three national parks over the next days. The next stop was the edge of the rain forest, where we showed our national park passes and started on a hike to the Middleham Falls – the tallest waterfall in Dominica at 150 feet. The hike there took us about an hour, clambering through dense trees, ferns and tropical flowers. Up here, there is a constant fine mist of rain, which kept us cool. Our guide Armstrong called it liquid sunshine.
We finally reached the impressive waterfalls, which drop down into a pool that is swimmable – but cold! After a refreshing swim and a snack, we started on the way back.
We feared that the hike would become too much for the kids at some point, but they did great. They were actually better than us in many ways, being much more agile and better balanced! They made up stories about elves and trolls to entertain themselves. We grownups had fun listening to them.
More Swimming
After we had all piled back into the van, Armstrong took us to the Titou Gorge. This place has some claim to fame for being the setting of a scene in Pirates of the Caribbean 2. In it, Orlando Bloom and a bunch of pirates roll down into it while trapped in a cage, and have to swim for their lives.
On the way to the gorge we made a short stop at Armstrong’s house, so he could pick us some herbs from his garden. The herbs, spices and fruits that grow in this region are amazing, and they seem to grow everywhere. When we got to the gorge, Armstrong just told us to change into our swimwear and follow him. The place did not look very promising but we did as we were told…
We waded into the freezing water and started following our guide. He led us into a narrow gorge, swimming in deep water, with lush plants overhead. At the end of the gorge there was a waterfall, nearly blasting us all the way back out! Armstrong showed us how to swim in close to the waterfall by keeping to the side, and climbing up into the little pool it thundered into. It was beautiful.
On the way out we warmed up under a natural hot shower, then got back into the van. We hoped that lunch would be next! On the way to the restaurant, we stopped at a stream that was full of watercress. We picked great big handfuls, planning to make a big egg salad the next day.
By the time we arrived at the River Rock Cafe for lunch, we were starving! Armstrong recommended that we have one (but only one!) rum punch with our lunch. They were the best rum punches we had ever tasted, so some of could not resist having a second one…. The food was delicious too.
Hot Springs
Replenished and a bit tipsy from the rum punch, we drove to the next stop: the hot springs of Trafalgar Falls. We thought we would just roll out of the car and into the hot water, but no! Dominica surprised us yet again… On the drive, Armstrong had pointed out two large waterfalls in the distance, nicknamed The Mother and The Father. We now stood at the base of them, and had to climb up along massive boulders to reach first The Mother, which has cool water, then The Father, hot water!
I was quite intimidated by the steep climb. I got stuck a few times, not sure where to put my foot or how to pull myself up unto the next rock. But Armstrong was amazing. He guided us all through, paying a lot of attention to the children. When we reached The Father we were treated with a lovely hot jet bath, massaging our aching muscles! It was so good that we did not want to go down again, and when we finally did the moon was up and darkness was falling.
I am so glad that we pushed through with the climb because it was a fantastic experience. The kids absolutely loved it. That evening they fell asleep quicker than ever before, and the next day they asked if we could swim in the hot springs again!
Wow!!
And wow again!
I was right there beside you, such an amazing day out you guys had, and no nanny state rules to over protect you!
Looks such an interesting place, very happy you’ve been too busy having family experiences to have time to blog!!!
Our lov3 to you one and all , plus your extended family!